Lights, camera, action: what happens in the village before you get there

Something about this sign makes me feel like it's there for
my benefit.....kind of like any other random poster
I see in English!

A friend of mine from South Africa told me some interesting development stories recently.  We were talking about the village we visited in Laos, and all the reasons why we should not take the experience at face value. 

Perhaps our immediate doubt is a sign of professional cynicism.  The village was clean, peaceful, and more vibrant than we had expected.  Could this possibly be the way it really was? We of course wondered if the village leaders had been instructed to lead a major drive to collect all the trash before we arrive, deter people from buying the local rice wine the day before, and ensure that everyone wore their nicest clothes that day.

My friend spoke about his experiences from a public primary school for blacks (prior to integration).  Theoretically his class was supposed to learn English, but it was not taught.  Except for when the school administration would learn that the inspector would be coming.  Suddenly the students were drilled relentlessly in the responses to “good morning” and “how are you?”  It was critical that the inspector think that they were learning English and walk away satisfied.

There are dozens of stories like this. For the person parachuting in, it’s hard to get the true story in a quick visit.  Villagers, school administrators, and others are smart and have learned how to survive by figuring out what people want to see.  There are seemingly global practices for preparing for outside visitors, especially those who are perceived to potentially provide donations or other benefits.  No matter what your entry point, whether through a local NGO, a private slum tour company, or a friend, it's really hard to see an authentic picture, and what's worse, you don't even really have a way to know if what you're seeing is the real deal!

This does not mean you should not go to the village.  You should!  There is a lot to be learned from wandering around and talking to people.  But recognize that there are limitations to what you will be shown, particularly if people know what you’re looking for.  I suggest making it clear that you want to see the reality,  try to wander a bit beyond the boundaries, talk to a range of people, and keep in mind that you’re probably getting shown a sanitized version of the truth.  After the visit, you can reflect and validate what you see with locals that you trust.

Or stick around!  It’s hard to keep up the act for too long.